The beauty of fashion is that change is constant and trends, for better or worse, determine the ebb and flow of what’s in, what’s out, what’s hot and what’s not. However, “trends” generally don’t apply to South Asian fashion, since most designers tended to stick to a few basic tenets of Desi fashion. But that has slowly changed. What has emerged over the last few years is greater diversity and a broader view of South Asian fashion. A huge shift has been a focus on craft, textiles and simplicity of design that has allowed designers to explore beyond the confines of the sub-continent. Below, are the most popular  trends for summer brides this year.

Soft Colors

If there is one characteristic that Indian fashion is universally known for, it is color. The brilliant, jewel toned hues of India’s garments led famed American Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland to proclaim that “pink is the navy blue of India.” But that is not the case for Spring/Summer 2011 since designer after designer sent cream, gold and pastel colors down the runway. The clean, airy palette kept the focus on fit and fabric while color was used only as an accent.

credits: ritu kumar (left), tarun tahiliani (right)

Net Fabric

The sheer fabric trend has been gaining strength for several seasons but net is the fabric du jour for Spring/Summer 2011. Whether used as an overlay on lehengas and anarkali churidars or as the material for saris, net is the hottest thing on and off the runway. It’s a unique choice for designers, who in recent years have focused on using organic, indigenous textiles like handloomed silks and cottons. While net is not the most forgiving fabric, especially when worn as a sari, it does lend the garment a certain delicacy and elegance. Additionally, any embellishment used on the the fabric must be kept very fine and, therefore, much of the heavy, detailed work on net fabrics are kept along the border and hemline.

credits: manish malhotra

Anarkali

Named after the legendary courtesan from Emperor Akbar’s court, the Anarkali churidar has made a huge comeback since it first became fashionable in the 80s. Every designer featured this style in the Spring/ Summer shows and celebrity after celebrity have worn this look. The beauty of the Anarkali is that it is works on every body type. The length of the top is traditionally worn down to the ankles but modern versions have lengths that come to both the shin and the knees. The long, flared silhouette also allows for a multitude of design options: sleeveless, cap sleeves, long sleeves; round neck, sweetheart, band collar; and it can either be worn fitted under the bust or tapered toward the waist.

credits: anju modi

Volume and Hemline Embellishment

A huge trend for lehengas this season is a softer, more fluid shape with lots of volume. Lehengas, especially those worn for weddings, are generally overworked and weighed down with crystals, beading, sequins, embroidery–if it sparkled it was on there! But this season, it is all about keeping the silhouette minimal and clean with a focus on the hemline which is decorated with brocade, velvet and embroidery accents.

credits: tarun tahiliani (left) anju modi (right)

Velvet

A trend that began in earnest last year and shows no signs of letting up is velvet. Used for cholis, dupattas, embroidery appliques and hemline accents, velvet comes in a close second to net as the most overused fabric this season.

credit: tarun tahiliani

Who are you?

What do you do?
Couture Rani is a online luxury boutique selling made-to-order bridal and evening wear by noted fashion designers in India.

Where are you based?
The business is based in New York and New Delhi.

When and How did you get started in the South Asian wedding industry?
My interest in Indian fashion really began while I was working in the fashion industry in New York and noticed the use of Indian elements and craft techniques in the collections of the world’s top brands like Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Oscar de la Renta, etc. Given India’s thriving fashion industry, I knew that there needed to be a way for India’s amazing design talent to shine on it own platform. At the same time, I saw how difficult it was to find quality Indian garments in the US without making an expensive and exhaustive trip to India. Couture Rani was the best way to to bring both worlds together while removing the barriers of geography, access, supply and distribution. Although I never intended to focus on bridal, it is at the heart of almost every Indian designer’s collection and nothing displays the unique traditional crafts of India like a beautiful sari or lehenga.

Why do you do what you do?
I’m passionate about Indian fashion and the industry and want to showcase the amazing work coming from the sub-continent.  The more I learn about Indian fashion, its history and craft traditions, the more awed and inspired I am by it. There is no other country in the world that has the skill and talent of India’s artisans and feel I’ve just scratched the surface in terms of exploring what it has to offer.

Do  you work exclusively on South Asian weddings?
No. Although, our product range features mostly traditional garments, we will be expanding our range to cater to a broader clientele.  I would love to add more wedding and evening gowns to the site. We currently sell a gorgeous tulle and lace embroidered wedding gown by designer Gaurav Gupta as well as several saris that come with pre-pleated pallavs which are great if you’re not familiar or comfortable with draping a sari. Many Indian designers are also thinking about markets outside of India and are designing pieces like sari gowns which can just be zipped up.

Describe some of your inspirations. I am inspired by anyone trying to disrupt the traditional way of doing things or finding new paths to blaze whether they be designers, photographers, engineers, entrepreneurs, etc.

What are some mistakes you see most South Asian brides (and families) make?
Not clearly articulating their expectations and desires with the vendors they hire. Be as specific, detailed and upfront as you can about what you want and you’re less likely to have issues down the road.

Do you only cater to certain budgets only?
While some designer clothes can be pricey, most aren’t much more expensive than the non-branded clothes sold in the various bridal stores throughout India. However, keeping all budgets in mind, Couture Rani offers a unique service that allows customers to collaborate with our designers and order a custom designed piece. The designers can work with a customer’s budget in mind allowing her to get a one of a kind piece she really loves and is also in her price range.

Tell us about your strongest area.
Our strength is to be able to bring the best that Indian fashion has to offer to a single location and change the traditional way a bride shops for her wedding. We plan to add additional, personalized services in the near future to make that process even easier!

Tell us about your weakest area.
We are a new business in the marketplace and it will take time to build brand awareness and trust. At the same time, being a new business allows us to adapt quickly and figure out what’s working and what isn’t. The feedback from our customers is really powerful and not only informs our business but also the businesses of the designers who partner with us.

How would you describe your working style?
It’s very colloborative. I love the feedback I get from our Facebook fans, on Twitter or just talking directly with customers. Listening to what our audience has to say is one of the most important things we do.

What’s your number one wedding tip?
To just take it all in and be blissfully oblivious to anything that doesn’t involve you enjoying your special day

Be prepared to get inspired by breathtaking ensembles and dazzling accessories for your own spring/summer bridal ideas!

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

Anand Kabra’s collection, ‘Kumari’, is a tale of the two faces of a woman–one of a ‘goddess,’ the other of a ‘temptress’. The major theme of the collection was asymmetry which you could see in the skewed hemlines, shoulders, buttons, etc. The color palette of ivory, white, turmeric pewter, ash and sindoor red was easily a background for bridal wear. Kabra used beautiful ethnic motifs to display an (almost) ready-to-wear collection. See the collection after the jump.

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

Trends to watch out for:

• Assymetrical lines
• Floor-length kurtas
• Layered skirts

Be prepared to get inspired by breathtaking ensembles and dazzling accessories for your own spring/summer bridal ideas!

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

Ahmedabad designers Bhumika and Shyamal Shodhan unveiled  a magnificently Indo-Mughal themed affair as their Spring/Summer 2010 bridal collection on September 18, 2009. Perfect for a royal-themed wedding, the color scheme is superbly rich thus making it  perfect for a fall or winter wedding! Working off of a rich color palette of burgundy, chocolate, orange, green, brown, midnight blue and stark black hues, the designers infused velvet, velour, and brocade fabrics with zardozi, chikan, gota, marodi and aardi work. The collection consists of opulent ghaghra cholis, silken saris and stunning kurtas–jewel-encrusted cummerbands and all.

Amazing eye-candy as well as inspiration for a  regal and luscious wedding-day wardrobe. See the collection after the jump.

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week

Trends to watch out for:

• Churidaar Kurta
• Transparent Churidaar leggings
• Contrasting Dupatta
• Dotted Sequins